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Week 11, 12 and 13 – Focus on work and food

Jordi panorama
Sunset in Montgrony

Yepp, these last couple of weeks have been more focused on finishing up work, receiving the last groups of clients for the year and a lot of meetings for everything we want to do with Active Spain next year. Kept on training and kept on climbing but without a lot to tell about. The finger still hurts quite a lot on and off but it is defenetly going in the right direction. Writing this from my native Sweden where I just landed, waiting for the connecting flight that will bring me even further north, I assume that next week will be limited to maybe one or maximum two sessions. Otherwise I’ll be looking for frosen ice instead, frosen ice on the sea that is! And family and friends of course.

Two things related to this training experiment might be worth mentioning. The lead wall at McPlaf is now opened! Really fun to lead on a 30 degree overhanging wall but oh so freakin’ hard. When I clipped the anchors of a “6b+” it really felt like a proud send, in my world it was quite the same as Bis-a-bis (7a) in Rodellar. Well, I guess it’s good to start learning leading on steep as well as bouldering

The other thing is that since 2½ week I’m eating way differently than I’ve done previously in my life. One of my goals the winter was to establish a new “base” weight for me, for injury and health and of course climbing performance. After some reasearch and reading up I decided to eat way less carbs and a lot more fat of all kinds. Butter, cream and cheese is now ever present in my meels. I also eat a little more protein but the most important is that I’m not eating ANY kind of processed carbs. No pasta, no bread, no beer and of course no sugar. Result? Wow, increadible, I had in my wildest dreams never thought the difference would be this big. No blood sugar dips, no crazy sugar cravings, steady energy all day. And weight? 2 kg less in 2 weeks and actually 4 kg les than what I weighed in at the highest in September. So all of a sudden I think I really will reach my goal weight and after that be able to go lighter when I need to. Thank you Micke for pointing me in the right direction! For you that can read Swedish, you can check out for more information. I’ll be happy to answer questions about what I’m eating if you’re interested, just post a comment or send me a mail.


Now back in beautiful Cataluia. The sun is shining and yesterday we could go climbing up in Montgrony. Shorts and t-shirt all day, fantastic! Especially given the amount of snow in the mountains right now. Besides this, finger is a little better and psyche is high to get back to training.

Do you want to climb in Montgrony? Staying at the hotel is a great experience! And remember that Carhire 3000 normally finds you the best rental deals.

Posted in Training.

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