Strange week of hurting finger and finally really good days of rock. Feeling stronger and more energetic, good stuff! Again the amount of quality sleep I get and stress level really have clear effect. A lot of work this week but managed to keep stress under control. Actually miss the feeling of being destroyed by training, will be fun to have some harder days in the gym again. (Remind me of this when I complain next time…)
Tuesday – Was supposed to do 5 boulders but my finger hurt too much so I could only do (almost) 3 boulders. Then went home. Angry and worried.
Thursday – Taped my hurting finger so I couldn’t bend it. Then did 2x3x6B1/2/4 followed by 4x40RL. Felt really well! According to plan we are now having a low volume period to be in shape until mid December. Sounds good, just hope my finger gets good until then!
Saturday – Margalef for the day. Headed to a new sector and got the draws up on a cool 7a. Finger felt good and I hiked the route first go. Such a difference psychologically to KNOW that with a jug I will be able to spend 5 minutes shaking and then be fresh. On this route it was exactly like this. Hard vertical start, then up to the steeper, juggy upper part. Stood 5 minutes shaking and then just hiked to the top. Great feeling! And even better: could belay my friends Aleix sending the same route for his first 7a! CONGRATULATIONS! Many more to come for sure. Then tried another 7a in the same sector. Wow, those where long runouts… Very good climbing but unfortunatly also with some parts of bad rock. Might go back for the route next year after it has seen some more traffic.
Saturday – Roc de Lluna up by Berga. Amazing sector, increadibly cool rock and routes. And I’ve never heard about it before! Oh, I love living here in Catalunya. Did 5 routes on kind of a endurance day. Basically only pockets, something I’ve never been able to climb before. On-sighted a 6c that I think was about the same dificulty of the 7a yesterday. Well well, you climb the route and not the grade, no? Finger felt really good but still did every move with my right hand very carefull. A little more training and it’s time for Montsant!
