The author on the magnificent traverse on the third pitch
After reading this inspiring blog post, the route Redrum above the village Àger was the route of choice for our Saturday of climbing. We left Terrassa Friday night and finally arrived an hour after midnight to the base of the walls. Slept by the side of the car and awoke to an amazing view of the beautiful valley of Àger. On the other side the immaculate limestones towered above us.
The view from the road to the climbing.
The car and the wall
The route consists of good free climbing mixed with a few meters of scrambling and maybe in total 15 meters of A0/bolt ladders. We brought one ladder each but it can be done with slings as well. We both enjoyed the route, the scenery and the huge birds (eagles?) soring around us. The landscape is truly second to none.
How to find the climb: From the village of Àger, drive towards the star observatory. After about 10-15 minutes of driving you have a sign to the right pointing towards Coll d’Ares and Colobó. Take this unpaved road. After a while the road forks, stay to the left (to the right you have a fountain). After about 3-4 km of driving you have the climb. Use this photo to identify the wall. Here is a map of the road from the village of Àger.
Topo: Ressenya.net has an excellent topo.
Gear: Green, yellow and red alien + Camlot 1 and 2 + nuts. Quick draws and an aider for the A0-parts.
Descent: Top out and then walk a couple of hundred meters to the top. Take the trail to the north (right) for about 10-15 minutes. Walk past the old car standing there and then walk uphill a couple of hundred meters. Find the cairns and zig-zag down the unlikely looking gully until you’re back to the road.
