Topo from www.tibalifort.blogspot.com
On a sunny November Friday we head to the magnificent Roca Ponent in the area called Vinya Nova on the South Face of Montserrat to climb the sports multi-pitch route “Vendetta”.
We park the car at the spacious parking just below the Restaurant Vinya Nova (5 minutes’ drive from both villages El Bruc and Collbató): the wall is easy to identify looking towards the mountain into the wide valley behind the restaurant building. With a 20 minutes’ walk we reach the base of the Roca Ponent and from there we have to walk up a steep path with a lot of loose stones: better not to leave a big distance between you and your partner while walking up to reduce the risk of hitting him/her with a stone.
View from Roca Ponent
The route Vendetta is the first line of bolts from the left (there are two or three more routes on the same wall). The route is 90 meters long, has three rope lengths (7a, 7a, 6c+) and is very well equipped. You just need 16 quick-draws and a single rope to climb it.
We start climbing around 1:00 pm, when the sun starts to warm up the rock (west facing). It’s a really perfect day with sun and clouds, no wind, good temperature for enjoying climbing in the sun without freezing nor sweating neither. So good!
The first pitch seems quite bouldery to both of us, with a single hard sequence on a vertical wall at the beginning and then easy on slab with good holds. The second pitch is a fantastic 40 meters vertical wall on good, medium, to small pockets. Good endurance is required! The last pitch starts a little bit uncomfortable on overhanging not very good rock, but the bad feeling is immediately over when you end up climbing on an aerial and very compact slab with a wonderful view down to the valley.
We manage the descent with three rappels (we have a 100 m rope) to the ground.
At the end of the day, we enjoy a spectacular red sunset on the wall we have just climbed.
This was a very good outdoor activity for a relaxed Friday afternoon, a perfect warming up for the hard sport climbing weekend!
Sunset on Roca Ponent
Posted in Crags, Routes.
Last week we were glad to welcome Joakim from Sweden, who wanted to discover something new for him. He is an experienced climber, but had never tasted the special kind of rock we have got here: conglomerate!
Conglomerate is a clastic sedimentary rock that contains large rounded clasts. The space between the clasts is generally filled with smaller particles and/or a chemical cement that binds the rock together (definition by geology.com). There are many different kinds of conglomerate, more or less solid, with bigger or smaller clasts, with more pockets or more protruding stones. Here in Spain we have two more examples of good conglomerate crags, such as Margalef and Riglos.
Nevertheless the conglomerate you climb on in Montserrat is quite different from these two other crags. People say it is a “non commercial” climbing style, which means that if you are not used to it, it can be quite complicated to “read” the way up to an anchor and the difficult grade of most of the routes can appear very hard. Usually you climb on slab or vertical walls and you have to rely on very small slopers, crimps or pockets. Strong fingers and a good feet technique are required. But, with just a little bit of experience, climbing in Montserrat can become very fun and give you great satisfaction. I promise!
Climb In Spain arranged a two days climbing trip for Joakim with our local guide Lisi, the best specialist for climbing here in Montserrat. The first day was dedicated to sports climbing, the perfect way for the client to have a first contact to a new style of climbing and for the guide to test the level and skills of the client and decide what multi-pitch route is more suitable for him.
The first day Lisi and Joakim went to the South Face of Montserrat and enjoyed a wonderful sunny day climbing many single pitches between 5+ and 6b (5.8 to 5.10d). Joakim reports he had a lot of fun and he finished the day talking to his fingers, trying to wake them up
The second day they headed to the classic area Gorros / Sant Benet for a pleasant experience on a multi-pitch route, which they also enjoyed a lot.
Who of you understands Swedish can read the enthusiastic report of Joakim on his blog www.utsidan.se. Otherwise you can ask google translate for help.
Thank you Joakim for visiting us! Looking forward to seeing you soon again!
Posted in Climbing Trips, Crags.
Margalef, Finestres sector
Hi to everybody!
October is starting, the best month for climbing here in Catalonia and the beginning of a long climbing season, lasting to the end of June. Yes, because autumn, winter and spring are all very good for tasting a little bit of Spanish rock.
Now the weather is amazing, the days not too short yet and climbing conditions are simply perfect… so… what are you waiting for?? It’s time to go out and climb!!
We were quite for a very long time, fully absorbed in other projects, and we are very sorry for having the blog and the web page forgotten for so long.
But now the crew Climb In Spain is back on work and we are up for putting online a lot of new content and special offers for you.
Our goal is still the same: We want to make it easier for you to Climb in Spain. We organize climbing trips to Spain and especially Catalonia with everything you need: accommodation in a beautiful and well-located rural house, guided climbing with a qualified climbing guide, pick up service from/to the airport and all the transfers from/to the climbing areas during your stay.
We provide all the information you need and spare you all the communication and logistical problems related to the organization of your trip.
With us, you will discover the stunning walls of Montserrat, our home mountain, visit the most famous climbing areas such as Siurana, Montsant, Margalef and Rodellar and also discover many other little treasures, hidden in beautiful corners of Catalonia and the rest of Spain.
Very soon, we will publish our special reopening offers: stay tuned!
Posted in News, Site.
Looking for a good place to stay while bouldering in the excellent granite area known as The Chaos of Targasonne? Look no further, the Gite Chaos is what you’re looking for!
Open last year and located only a kilometer from the bouldering this is the perfect basecamp for your bouldering vacation. If you’re interested, please send the friendly owner Roberto an e-mail at email@example.com. And of course you find all information about pricing and rooms available at gite-chaos.com.
Posted in Bouldering.
We received a mail from The Climb Ibiza-team regarding their new web page:
We visited you page today and thought you maybe interested in linking a page which we are currently working on.
It contains route information, crags, deep water soloing info and general information about climbing in Ibiza. The site is a wiki, so registered users can log in and edit route information, add new routes or post routes with bad bolts etc… In this manner it is the most updated information available on climbing in Ibiza.
Anyway you may be interested in providing a link from your webpage so more people will be able to access this information.
Let now hope we all get a chance to go to Ibiza and climb once in our lifetime.
Posted in News.
Our guides was quite busy last winter. Climbing a lot and putting up a couple of new long traditional routes in the impressive Monrebei-area. Now Lisi and Salva have put together a little film from their adventures. Thank you very much for sharing! This is a wild area and it’s not often you find interesting videos from climbing here.
More of this, please!
Posted in Routes, Site, Video.
Fredrik Nyberg on Solo para ella, 7b+, Mont-Ral
Wow, time flies by when you have a lot of work! Since Easter my climbing outside has been limited, quite expected since the months of April and May together with September and October are the busiest for a small travel agency like ours. Training on the other hand has gone very well! No finger problems (knock on wood) and feeling strong and energetic most of the time. Trying to get into what here is called “Fisico” and equals to ending each training session with a massive amount of pull-ups, campus, lock-offs, weighted pull-ups etcetera. It has been a challenge and most of the times I’m very happy if I can get through half of it. To last 2½-3 hours of training I try to eat a good meal two ours before going training and have a short siesta, it helps a lot.
For the outdoor climbing I remember 3 different routes from the last two months:
- La Reina de Africa, 7a+, in Camarasa. A lot of people here love Camarasa and now I understand why. It is a very, very good area. La Reina de Africa is a 35 meter long route that is basically a 15 meter long slightly overhanging section at the start and some quite intense moves by the very last bolt. Hard 7a or soft 7a+? Well, I take the 7a+.
- Sr. Pivot, 7a, in Montserrat. I tried this route last year, escaping the hardest moves by going into a rest on the side and then using my massive span to skip the whole section. I couldn’t even hang on two the little two finger pockets at the crux and not hold the slopey crimp after. Coming back again after 8 months of training was great, did the crux moves first try warming up, then sent the route twice completely avoiding the left wall. Cool route and really nice feeling to see the difference from the training!
- Solo para ella, 7b+, Mont-Ral. Wow. One of my projects for the winter. Did all the moves of the hard start (up to where Fredrik is on the photo above) straight away. Long and hard moves. Heal hook. Some really marginal moves. And long! About 38 meters in total. What a great project! Went back there again to work the route for two more days. 27 C warm. Not a chance, just impossible. But come October I’m back!
That about the routes. Now it’s summer here in Spain and I must say that this is the worst time of the year climbing wise for me. I have plenty of time in November to March so I’ll take this following months to train as hard as possible, enjoy the summer and once in a while try to climb outside. My maximum grade drop a lot with the heat, I’m from the north that is clear. So my goal is to be in as good of shape as possible when fall comes.
Food and fitness-wise I’m still very happy with my diet. Skipping junk-energy like pasta and sugar and eating a lot more fat has been a great decision. Weight wise I’m more or less stable just around 84-85 kg but with less fat. Let’s see what happens in 6 more months.
Well, now time for a rest and then down to train!
Posted in Training.