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Easter holiday Ramonet style

Easter is approaching, and Ramon took the opportunity to visit a few Cataluñan crags: Vilanova de Prades, Margalef and Siurana. He’s mostly been relaxing on 8a-8b+ routes, but also made a typically quick ascent of Buma ye, 8c+, at Margalef. 5 tries in 2 days.

Posted in News.

Pereira likes his coffee

Argentinian, Danilo Pereira has repeated the very steep El Templo del café, 8c+/9a, at Alquezar (Huesca). Some think it’s 9a, and some, including Danilo, say 8c+.

Posted in News.

More Margalef news: Iker repeats Víctimas Perez (9a)

Yesterday, Iker Pou did the first repeat of Víctimas Perez. A 9a route at the Racó de les finestres, Margalef.
It was first ascended by Ramonet and was bolted by Chris Sharma and also Dani Andrada and Oscar Jimenez.

The bad thing is Iker was bolting a new route and someone has stolen the carabiners and the fixed rope hanging down. Is not the first case of thieves in Margalef. Some months ago, someone stole Daila Ojeda’s quickdraws of a route she was trying.

Please, if you see bad behaviors, try to talk to them or notice the people of Can Severet refuge. With this behaviors, Margalef’s future is hanging by a thread. Respect the people and respect the environment.

Source: Andoni Perez

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First visit to Sant Joan and a new home

Sant Joan de Vilatorrada
Me sending a nice 6B

Breakfast in the sun A couple of weeks ago we finally dropped by Sant Joan de Vilatorrada, the big bouldering area outside of Manresa and about an hours drive from Barcelona. I’ve visited a fair amount of bouldering areas around the world and my first impression was more than positive. There are some huge boulders out there! The rock type is limestone covered conglomerate and the climbing fairly athletic. There is a guidebook called E-Bloc that covers this area as well as 11 other Spanish bouldering areas. It will of course be sold in the on-line store when it opens, we are now only awaiting a deal with DHL or other distribution company, and also in our planned mini-climbing store in our house by Montserrat. House by Montserrat? Oh yes, we have now moved to a really nice house in the village of El Bruc right by the foot of the mountain. With this perfect location we easily can explore the Lleida-area and also provide guidebooks to passing climbers, have crashpads to rent, sell 80-meter ropes for our long routes or simply offer you a cup of coffee in the morning or a beer on our terrace in the afternoon. Let us know when you’re close by sending me an e-mail or giving me a call at +34649105141. We look forward to meeting you!

Anyway, back to Sant Joan de Vilatorrada. Here is a nice trailer from some local climbers. You can check out their newly opened blog Salvanebleau for more videos and inside information.

TRAILER SALVANEBLEAU from Ramon Maeso on Vimeo.

Posted in Bouldering, Video.

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Jung climbs Jungle speed, 9a

Daniel Jung has made the FA of a route he calls Jungle speed, in the La Capella- sector at Siurana. Daniel says he didn’t think the project looked that hard, maybe 8b+, but that it took a long time for him to solve the single moves, which turned out to be the hardest he has done on a route: “The line is short, not more than 12m. The hardest is to link two hard boulders in a raw or like two cruxes of an 8c+ route.. The most powerful move is a crazy shoulder move, the second a litle jump in a two finger pocket. The first hard move worked well, but catching the pooket took me a lot of time… There are only very small footsteps and its very hard to coordinate the jump..”.

About the grade, he thinks that it weighs in around the 9a mark.

Full story on Daniel’s blog

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FA and 2nd ascent of La ley innata

Dani Andrada, who seems to be in great form at the moment (as if this wan’t always the case) has made the FA of La lay innata, 8c+/9a, just to the left of the infamous FRFM-project at Margalef (Laboratoria). Close on the heels of Dani, was Ramon Julian Puigblanque.

Source: Kairn and Ramon’s blog

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Ondra and Golpe de estado

As most of you probably know already (sorry for being so slow), Adam Ondra has made the 2nd ascent of Chris Sharma’s Golpe de estado, 9b, at Siurana. This is especially interesting for two reasons:

1) It’s Adam’s first 9b

2) It’s the first 9b ever to see a 2nd ascent (Adam confirmed the grade)

It’s also the route Adam had to work the hardest to take down, ~30 tries spread over 14 days. Kinda logical when you think about it. It should be noted that Adam broke off a crucial hold, making the second part of the route slightly more difficult (9a instead of 8c+). He describes it as a 9a+ followed by a 9a. Hard if you ask me…

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Terradets taste menu: Bruixes

The gorge of Terradets lies in the west of Catalunya, between Lleida and the Pyrenees.

Terradets is known for it’s three multi-pitch adventure crags between 200 and 500m and it’s famous sport climbing crag. In this post I want to focus in this last one: Paret de les Bruixes (Witches wall)

Paret de les Bruixes

Bruixes is a limestone crag with a little mixture of sandstone, thats why the holds have a dirty touch. There you’ll find more or less 50 routes between 6a and 8c+ but most are 7c+ and 8a.

In general, the type of climbing is over tufas with moderate holds and overhangs with big jugs. Obviously there are also slabs with reglets and some pockets, anyway the crag is famous for it’s tufas.

Here is our Bruixes taste menu:

  • Pasta sin agua, 7a+. Polished start, is one of the typical routes to warm up. Little tufas and slabs.
  • Jam Sesion, 7b (7b+ for some). Classical route which starts with tufas that precede long moves and finally a sustained vertical slab.
  • Occident, 7c. Another classic crag’s 7c with a technical start tufa, jugs, overhang and an exit in juggy tufas with a boulder move over slopers.
  • Energia Positiva 7c+. Continuity with tufas and a slab which ends with a juggy overhang.
  • Orient, 7c+. Similar than Energia Positiva.
  • Primera linia 7c+/8a. Tufas and a hard move on the slab.
  • Efecte 2000, 7c+/8a. Big holds and a hard move on a one finger pocket.
  • Latido del miedo, 8a. Polished as hell, continuity and tufas with the crux in the middle of the route.
  • Anarkista, 8a+. Hard route, resistance over little tufas.
  • Red Bull 7c+. Hard tufa route. It advances in diagonal.

At this crag you can also climb combos of routes, like Definición de resistencia demócrata. The hardest route in the crag, 9a/+. It starts at Definición de acción, continues by La esencia de la resistencia and ends at Democràcia.

Definición de resistencia Demócrata

More things: at the beggining of the crag there’s a super hard 6b+, then some crappy routes where we shall highlight a 6a+ or 6b with a very ugly bouldery start but so nice after it.

You can climb at Bruixes all year because it’s faced south-west: In summer you’ll have to wake up early because the sun hits the wall at 12. It can be very cold in winter if the fog covers the valley.
The ideal day to climb there is a cold and sunny day, shorts and no t-shirt assured!

Click on the following thumbnail to download the Bruixes topo Pete O’Donovan did. Thanks to him for letting us use his pictures and topo. Thanks to Niall McNair for his picture of the crag and also thanks to Marieta for helping us performing this taste-menu.

Bruixes topo

Posted in Taste menu.

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Ondra goes A Muerte

Adam Ondra has returned to Spain and Siurana. This time he crushed Richard Simpson’s bouldery two finger pocket horror, A muerte, 9a, in 3 tries, for its fastest ascent to date. When Adam was in Spain last month, his goal was making the 2nd ascent of Chris Sharma’s Golpe de estado, when he was shut down because of bad weather and a small tendon injury he suffered while trying Demencia senil. Better luck this time?
Source: Czech climbing/Kairn

Posted in News.

Instant Iker action

Last week, Iker Pou once again visited the Lleida crags. Andoni Perez reports, he  first made quick work, as in two tries, of Full Equipe, ~8c, at Oliana, a route bolted by Victor Fernandez, before moving on to Margalef and the Hermita sector, where he polished off the pocket race Abanico de cristal, 8c, for its first repeat. This one was bolted by Jordi Pou, and first climbed by Ramonet in 2007.

Also last week, the ex boulderer now turned endurance climber, Nalle Hukkataival, fought his way up Identification y placas, ~8c, at Oliana. Not bad for a power house!

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