As most of you probably know already (sorry for being so slow), Adam Ondra has made the 2nd ascent of Chris Sharma’s Golpe de estado, 9b, at Siurana. This is especially interesting for two reasons:
1) It’s Adam’s first 9b
2) It’s the first 9b ever to see a 2nd ascent (Adam confirmed the grade)
It’s also the route Adam had to work the hardest to take down, ~30 tries spread over 14 days. Kinda logical when you think about it. It should be noted that Adam broke off a crucial hold, making the second part of the route slightly more difficult (9a instead of 8c+). He describes it as a 9a+ followed by a 9a. Hard if you ask me…
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9a+ & 9a… according to Andrada’s maths that should be harder than 9b!
Anyway, congrats to Adam, sure he will flash 9a soon.
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Flashing 9a soon… I don’t agree, as far as I know Adam has only flashed 8b+ i dont think he has even flashed 8c like Sharma or Patxi, so in my opinion there is a long run until flashing 9a
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I think I’ll have to agree with both of you here. Or is that none of you? Adam has onsighted a dozen or so 8c’s, but has yet to establish himself on the 8c+ onsighting level (a positively mind-boggling level if you ask me), so I think it will still be some time before the first 9a onsight. Flash on the other hand… it’s hard to say, but I’ll stick my neck out and predict it will happen this year… or the next.
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